🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.